How to Scan Old Photos Before AI Restoration
Learn how to scan old photos, choose a useful resolution, avoid glare, preserve a master file, and prepare a separate copy for AI restoration.

To scan old photos for restoration, capture the complete print in focus, avoid glare, and keep an untouched master before making an upload copy. Start by checking whether the original can safely sit on a flatbed; fragile, curled or bound photographs may need a different capture method.
Prepare a clean scanning surface
Clean the scanner glass according to its manufacturer’s instructions before placing the photo on it, and let it dry fully. Do not rub, wet or try to detach material from a fragile print. If dirt is stuck to the photograph or the surface is flaking, ask a photograph conservator before attempting to clean it.
How to scan old photos with a flatbed
Place the photo flat and scan the entire print, including borders. For small prints, 600 dpi can be a starting setting to evaluate, not a universal archival requirement. Choose according to the print, scanner and intended use. Disable automatic sharpening, beauty filters and heavy color correction when possible.
If a phone is the only option, use even diffuse light, keep the camera parallel to the print and avoid reflections. Capture at the highest native quality rather than using digital zoom.
Save a master copy
Keep an untouched TIFF or high-quality PNG/JPEG master according to your storage needs. Make a separate working copy for Old Photo Restoration. Never overwrite the source scan with an AI result.
Inspect the scan before upload
Zoom in on faces, writing, edges and damaged regions. If the image is out of focus or contains glare, recapture it first. Better source evidence usually matters more than applying another enhancement pass later.
After damage repair, review the result before optional color work. Use the Image Upscaler only after the restoration is accepted and a larger digital or print size is actually needed.
Choose a capture method that suits the original
A flatbed is useful for a loose, flat print that fits completely on the glass. Do not force a curled photograph flat or press down an album binding to close a scanner lid. For a mounted photograph or an album that cannot open safely, a supported camera capture may be more suitable. Fragile or valuable originals should not go through an automatic feed scanner.
The US National Archives digitization guidance explains careful handling, keeping the physical originals, descriptive metadata and backups. Digitization does not remove the need to preserve the original object.
Understand what the scan setting changes
Scanner sampling resolution determines how many pixels are recorded across the physical print. For a 4 × 6 inch photograph, 300 pixels per inch gives approximately 1200 × 1800 pixels; 600 gives approximately 2400 × 3600. These are arithmetic examples, not scanner test results or a universal archival standard.
A higher setting can capture more of the print's available detail, but it also creates a larger file. It cannot create detail absent from the print. Check the scanner's optical capabilities rather than relying on an interpolated maximum setting. Make a small comparison capture if you are unsure whether increasing the setting records useful texture or merely a larger version of the same blur.
A phone-capture checklist
- Place the print on a stable, supported surface. Use diffuse light and check for reflections before taking the picture.
- Hold the camera parallel so opposite edges do not converge. Include the complete print, then make any crop on a working copy.
- Avoid your own shadow and bright reflections over faces. Move the light or camera arrangement if a reflection hides information; AI is not a substitute for a readable capture.
- Keep the phone steady, focus on the print and review the saved file rather than only the live camera preview.
- Take another capture if faces are soft or edges are clipped. Avoid digital zoom and repeated transfers through apps that compress images.
Separate the master from the upload copy
A preservation master and a tool upload serve different purposes. Keep the master at its captured quality. If it is TIFF or another format not accepted by the upload control, export a supported working copy such as PNG or JPEG; do not simply rename the file extension.
The tools can import supported static files up to 32 MiB and 100 MP, then adapt a processing copy to the chosen version's limits. A high-resolution scan is still valuable as a master even when a task processes a smaller copy. Read the processing dimensions before submitting so you know what detail the task will receive.
Record the context while it is available
Scan or photograph handwritten notes on the back separately. Record who is pictured, the approximate place and date, and which details remain uncertain. Keep the master and edited copies in separate folders and maintain a backup away from the device used for editing. After restoration, retain both versions so the altered image never replaces the evidence in the original capture.
Frequently asked questions
Should I scan old photos at 300 or 600 dpi?
Compare a small sample from your own print and scanner. A 4 × 6 inch print produces about 1200 × 1800 pixels at 300 samples per inch or 2400 × 3600 at 600. Use a higher setting when it records useful detail for your purpose; do not treat it as a universal preservation standard.
Can I use my phone instead of a scanner?
Yes, when the print can be supported safely and lit evenly. Keep the camera parallel, avoid glare and review focus in the saved image. Retake the capture if reflections hide faces or writing.
Which file should I upload for restoration?
Upload a supported working copy, such as PNG or JPEG, while keeping the master unchanged. If the tool adapts it to smaller processing dimensions, that does not make the original high-resolution scan disposable.
Keep a usable master before editing
Learning how to scan old photos is chiefly about capturing what is still visible in the print. Save the complete scan, photograph reverse-side notes separately, and keep a backup before trying old-photo restoration. The edited copy should stay traceable to that source.